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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.